“Why are we here, boys?” I asked as we made our way towards Cooper’s Hill. We were looking for the place where people chase a wheel of cheese down a Gloucestershire hillside. I had watched the videos. What I wanted to know was what that slope actually looked like in person.

Competitors descending the grassy Cooper’s Hill slope while spectators watch from the top
Cheese rolling on Cooper’s Hill. Edited from the supplied image; our family visited on a different day.

The answer came quickly: the camera does not do it justice. Even before we reached the race hill, the ground felt steeper than it looked on screen. The boys and I discussed which way to go, and whether the path ahead was really a good idea.

Watch our visit to Cooper’s Hill

Come along with us through the woodland and see the cheese-rolling slope for yourself.

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Taking the easier way through the woods

At first we tried a more direct, steep way down. Our shoes were not giving us enough grip, and I ended up putting a hand on the ground to steady myself. We had not brought water either. That was our cue to rethink the route.

We turned back and followed another path through Cooper’s Hill Nature Reserve. It was the best decision of the walk. Under the trees, everything felt quieter: a canopy overhead, a more manageable route and occasional openings with wide views across the countryside. The boys picked the direction at one junction, and we carried on looking for the cheese-rolling hill.

Adesanya seated on a fallen tree beside the wooded path to the top of Cooper’s Hill
A pause beside the wooded path we followed towards the top of the hill.

“Peaceful” was the word that kept coming to mind. It is easy to know Cooper’s Hill only through the race, but on an ordinary day the woodland is a destination in its own right.

Then we realised: this is the hill

We were expecting some grand moment of arrival. Instead, after following the paths and looking around, we realised we were already at the famous slope. From the top, the drop was startling. From below, looking back up, I could finally picture a cheese being sent down and competitors setting off after it, with spectators watching from either side on race day.

Adesanya standing at the top of the Cooper’s Hill cheese-rolling slope with the view across Gloucestershire behind him
At the top of the slope, where competitors gather before chasing the cheese downhill.

We did not visit during the competition, and we did not try to run down the race slope. Standing there with my boys was enough to understand why the event draws so much attention—and why you need to take the terrain seriously. We spoke with a couple of other visitors, took in the view and made our way around at our own pace.

What is the Cooper’s Hill cheese roll?

At the annual cheese-rolling event near Brockworth, competitors chase a wheel of Double Gloucester cheese down Cooper’s Hill. Gloucestershire Archives records a written reference to the custom in 1826, while also noting that nobody knows exactly when or why it began. Stories about much older or pagan origins are theories, not settled facts.

What you see in a clip is a few seconds of extraordinary speed. What surprised me on our visit was the setting around it: a nature reserve, walking paths and a view worth coming for even when no race is taking place.

How to plan a visit

  • Find the right place: Cooper’s Hill is near Brockworth, Gloucestershire. The nature reserve is free to enter and open year-round.
  • Plan your approach: Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust lists Fiddlers Elbow car park, off the A46 (GL4 8ET), as the nearest car park. It has a 6 ft 6 in height restriction. Check the reserve information and current access before leaving; event-day arrangements can differ from an ordinary visit.
  • Wear shoes with grip: Some paths are steep or uneven, and muddy ground can be slippery. Our first route taught us this the hard way.
  • Bring water and allow time: There are woodland paths as well as the famous viewpoint. Do not plan as though you can simply drive up, take a photo and leave.
  • Keep children close on the steep sections: Enjoy the views from a safe position, and choose a route that suits everyone walking with you. You do not have to descend the race hill to experience it.

The Wildlife Trust says good mobility is needed for this reserve and warns that wet weather can leave slopes muddy. If conditions are poor, choose your route conservatively or visit another day.

For current access, parking and paths, see Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust’s Cooper’s Hill visitor information. For the history of the race, read Gloucestershire Archives’ account.

Would I go back?

Yes. The trip began with a simple question—could we find the world-famous cheese-rolling hill?—and gave us more than the answer. We had a walk through peaceful woods, a memorable view and a chance to see a local tradition’s setting for ourselves. Next time, I would bring better footwear and water from the start.